Showing posts with label 1880s. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1880s. Show all posts

Thursday, 18 October 2012

Victorian Treasures

I am still madly researching vintage fashion, but today I came across these Victorian Treasures for sale and just had to share them.

March 1896 Issue Ladies World Magazine Fashions Needlework
March 1896 ladies World magazine from The Gatherings- $18
Chimney Corner Stories Vintage Late 1890s Children's Victorian Book
Late 1800s Children's Book on Etsy - under $30
1890's Brass Hand Mirror
1890s brass hand mirror on Etsy -  $55

Victorian Beaded purse at Antiques off Broadway - $275

Entertaining Stories and Sketches for Young America Vintage Late 1890s Children's Victorian Book
Older Child's reading book from 1894 on Etsy - around $35
Victorian Black Silk Lace Carved Grape Leaf Handle Parasol
Victorian parasol with carved bone handle from 1860 - 1960 - $250


Victorian Sentimentality in a Silver Locket
Victorian silver locket c 1880 from The Three Graces - $745

Victorian embroidered cape
Embroidered velvet Victorian cape c 1890 from Vintage Textile - $950
 
Which is your favourite?

Deb xx

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Ladies Bicycling Outfits of the 1870s and 80s

By the mid 1870's, as well as riding horses, ladies were able to ride bicycles.
Lady cyclists c. 1890
Although the penny farthing had been introduced in the late 1860s, the velocipede in the 1830s, and the tricycle around one hundred years earlier, it was the introduction of the 'safety bicycle', designed by English engineer Harry (or Henry) John Lawson in 1876, that spurred the popularity of cycling. (Not the same Henry Lawson as the Australian poet, by the way, who was born in 1867).  Lawson's bicycle had peddles that were nearer to the ground, making it much easier to stop, and one would think also easier to start and stay on.


velocipedes_newton_wilson


At around the same time another English inventor, John Kemp Starley moved to Coventry to work with his uncle, the inventor James Starley and foreman of the Coventry Sewing Machine Company.  Founded in 1863, the company was finding it difficult to expand (thanks no doubt to Singer)  and decided to diversify into cycles.  Although Frenchman Eugene Meyer had invented the classic High-Bicycle (Penny Farthing) design and fashioned the wire-spoke tension wheel in 1869, James Starley was the one who added the tangent spokes and the mounting step in his model, the “Ariel” High Wheeler.  It was named after the Ariel works in Coventry, and was the first cycle to have solid rubber tyres.  James Starley also patented the first ladies bicycle, in 1874, which was ridden side saddle with one peddle.


The Ferret, March 22, 1870 with Ariel Cycle

Starley's Nephew John, with  friend William Sutton, started to develop safer and easier to use bicycles and also produced tricycles. From 1881 to 1886 in Great Britain, more tricycles were built than bicycles - they were more expensive but were perceived as more genteel, as ladies dresses could be shown off nicely  and the upper classes had the disposable income to buy them for the women (and children) in the family. 


 

Many ladies wore their everyday dresses for cycling. Lady cyclists on 'bone-shakers', as the early bicycles were known due to the unforgiving metal wheels, were among the first women to wear pants, or Bloomers.  The baggy legged pantaloons were based on oriental designs and were popularised by Mrs Amelia Bloomer in America who had been preaching the virtues of such dress since 1851.  Interestingly these outfits were not used for horse riding at the time. 

lever_drive_tricycle   


In 1883 Starley's products were being branded as Rover, and in 1885 they introduced the Rover Safety Bicycle (the company also introduced the Rover car, in 1904). This was basically the modern bicycle we know today -  a rear-wheel-drive, chain-driven cycle with two similar-sized wheels. 

Ad for Rover Safety Cycle c. 1880


File:Ladies safety bicycles1889.gif
ladies Bicycle c.1880
Bloomers could still get caught in the chain, but soon a specific ladies safety bicycle was also developed, with a skirt (or bloomer) guard, which made things a little easier.

Woman posed with her bicycle. 1885


Bloomers were considered immoral by some, and caused major arguments in families, as well as arrests -  under an ordinance against “indecent apparel.” Skirts were much preferred for ladies, and many continued to wear normal walking dresses, although men were permitted to wear special cycling bloomers. 

Dress reform of the 19th century!
In in 1888 Belfast vet, John Dunlop, invented the pneumatic tyre, which made cycling a lot more comfortable. Don't you love the red tyres with the red oufit?!

Bicycle Catalogue 1890s source
More on the 1890's cycling craze and resultant fashions next time.

For more information and photos on Vintage Bicycles, go to Old Bike .com

Deb 

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Victorian Riding Habits - 1870s and 1880s

Although I ride, I have never ridden side saddle.  I remember as a little girl being allowed to side on a saddle at an historical property in Victoria called Bontharambo.  I have never forgotten that day.  It always looks so glamorous though, don’t you think?

Henride Montpezatd Ainecy - Elegant Lady Riding Her Horse Sidesaddle
Until about the mid 1500s women wore their everyday day clothes for riding.  The first habits were often military looking, copying the uniforms of the male riders of the day.  Gradually riding habits evolved – what was one more change of dress in the day if you had servants to help you?  Given the cost of the saddle the horse and the habit, and the fact that a lady needed assistance to mount side saddle, only women of substance could afford to ride at all.
 Portrait of a Lady in a Riding Habit
Lady Worsley by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1776 and Portrait of a Lady in a Riding Habit by Enoch Seeman the younger source
During the Victorian era  riding habits tended to follow fashion of the day, but unlike the day clothes of the time, riding habits were sombre in colour (earth colors like blue, green brown and also black) with little trim - any colour or trim was seen in the utmost of bad taste. Riding habits were also made by men’s tailors, rather than seamstresses, so the colours and fabrics would have been the same as used n men’s clothing and uniforms. In tropical climates and the colonies, such as India and Africa and Australia, the habits would have been lighter in colour – cream or beige – just as men’s suits and uniforms would have been.
Different riding habits were also worn for different occasions. One for use when riding in the park, a simpler version for summer wear, and those that hunted had a distinct habit for hunting. They were all highly tailored however, often with a jacket with a basque bodice - form fitting with boning,  fully darted and high collared, with decorative front buttons and a separated small tail. 
 
From the 1830's through the early 1870's the skirt was full and flowing and although picturesque, could cause a danger to both rider and horse. In 1875, the first safety skirt was introduced , with it longer on the left side and the front to hide the feet while sitting side saddle but shorter on the right side to make dismounting easier and faster.  When walking the extra length was draped around the right hip and fastened at the centre back waist with a button and ribbon loop, as in the small photo below. Either drawers, or soft leather breeches were worn underneath the skirt, and a  silk  undervest and corset would have been worn under the bodice.  By about  the 1910  the skirt evolved into the open-sided apron with no back, which was worn with matching pants or jodhpurs. When mounted it would not be known that it was only an apron because of the way it has been designed to sit on the rider.
Riding HabitRiding Habit  Riding Habit
American wool riding habit c. 1875
Riding Habit  Riding Habit
American wool riding habit c. 1880
Riding HabitRiding Habit
British wool riding habit c 1880-83
Riding Habit Riding Habit
French wool riding habit c. 1887
Here is a short little video I found that shows two ladies in traditional Victorian riding habits, as well as how to sit and ride side saddle.
  The photos of outfits were found at this source.
If your are interested, here are some side saddle links.
The Side Saddle Association – UK
The American Side Saddle Association
Side Saddle Ireland
Side Saddle Association of South Australia
Side saddles and suffragettes article
SideSaddle Wiki
Riding Aside – how to guide
And Where to Buy:
Side Saddle .com – UK site with mail order – you can buy everything here including habits
Wendy’s Saddlery  - Australian saddle maker who makes custom side saddles
Hundred Oaks – American side saddles including English and Western
Tattersalls Side Saddles – Canadian site with saddles and western clothing
Side Saddle Dressmaking Patterns – UK online site with copies of original period patterns
Ageless Patterns – riding habits of the late 1880s and other period patterns
SSA - More patterns
Deb xxx