Ostrich Feathers in Fashion

Ostrich Hunt, Etched by Stefano della Bella c. 1654 source

Ostriches have been hunted and farmed for their feathers, skin, oil and meat since Roman times.  Ostrich feathers have been used in fashion for thousands of years and were at one time worth more than their weight in gold.

Golden Gate Ostrich Farm Certificate for 5 Shares of $10 each, issued 26th Nov 1912 source

Ostriches are native to the African continent but are farmed worldwide.  Ostriches are so adaptable that they can be farmed in climates ranging from South Africa to Alaska.  It is thought that ostriches were domesticated at Oudtshoorn- a town on the southern most tip of Africa, where Ostriches roamed the plains  for centuries.   The modern domestic ostrich was bred from a cross between South Africa's indigenous bird, the South African Black, and the Evans-Lovemore strain of Barbary blue-necked ostriches (141 of which were secretly smuggled out of North Africa and brought to Oudtshoorn by a group of adventurers), and farming began in about 1860.

A Poke Bonnet c. 1860, source

Silk dress with ostrich feather trim c. 1875 source

Ostrich feathers in ladies clothing and hats was the height of fashion in Victorian and Edwardian Europe where they were especially popular for use on the latest fashionable hats. 

American silk and wool hat with ostrich feathers c.1910 source

c. 1911, source

A headline inThe New York Times from 1912 read: OSTRICH FEATHERS ONCE MORE IN WIDE USE. The article explained: “For hat trimming one plume, full and long, is considered sufficient, and in almost every instance the tip of the plume is placed toward the back of the hat, or resting at the back of the head.”

Between 1875 and 1880, ostrich  prices reached up to £1000 per breeding pair, and farmers of the region, quickly realised that ostriches were far more profitable than any other activity. Numerous immigrants, particularly the Jews of Eastern Europe and Lithuania, moved to Oudtshoorn, so that it earned the nickname "Little Jerusalem" by 1890.  By 1900 there were over 700,000 birds in captivity world wide, including in Australia and new Zealand

"Ostrich farming in Auckland District. Young Birds inspecting visitors, Helvetia Park, Auckland," 1905, 

 The best plumes are from the male birds were carefully cut, with sharp scissor like tools, and used for women’s hats as well as  capes, hand fans, boas, muffs, and trimmings on a variety of clothing and accessories.  At the peak of their popularity during the “feather fashion craze” of the early 20th century, plumes were found in dozens of sizes, made into fantastic shapes and amazing types. 

Fan of mother of pearl & ostrich feathers c. 1900 source

Fan dancer c. 1910

a Russian singer with Feather boa, c. 1900

South African ostrich feather dusters were developed in Johannesburg, South Africa by missionary, broom factory manager, Harry S. Beckner in 1903. He felt that the Ostrich feathers made a convenient and most efficient tool for cleaning up the machines at the broom factory.  By 1905 the Ostrich Duster was the must have item in many a household and were sold in ever increasing numbers which saw the introduction of the  feather duster salesman!  

Ostriches were also valued for their leather, which meant that in the 18th century they were almost hunted to extinction.  It is claimed that ostriches produce the strongest commercial leather, and it is highly prized for its strength and beauty and is still used today for shoes, purses, wallets, luggage and other small accessories.

Cawston Ostrich Farm,  in South Pasadena, California , just 5km north of downtown Los Angeles,  was opened in 1886 by Edwin Cawston as  America's first ostrich farm, after he imported fifty ostriches from South Africa (although less than half survived the journey).  Ostrich farms soon became popular tourist destinations. Guests could feed the birds and could be taken for ostrich drawn carriage rides or ride on the birds back, and women could buy leather products and feather hats in the farm's shop.

Children in an ostrich pulled cart at the Cawston Ostrich Farm, South Pasadena c. 1925

A thrilling ride at Cawston's c. 1927 source

It was primarily the invention of the motor car and the advent of the First World War that brought the Ostrich Feather Boom Era to an end. Faster open vehicles played havoc with the ladies’ splendid feather decorated fashions and fashion trends in 1914 and onwards were generally more sober and less flamboyant.

The burst of the 'feather bubble' wreaked havoc on thousands of people, particularly, argues Sarah Abrevaya Stein in her  book Plumes: Ostrich Feathers, Jews, and a Lost World of Global Commerce,Jews, such as those of Oudtshoorn and their relatives elsewhere. 

Ostrich feathers did pop up now again after WWI, and examples in fahsion can be found from every decade.  Look at this stunning dress by Louiseboulanger, from 1928, with trim of individual filaments of ostrich plume knotted together to form longer strands, each dyed a different tone for the effect of an ombré cascade.

Dress by Louiseboulanger, c.1928 source

In about 1934 Chanel designed a gown and matching evening cape  in black silk crêpe and embellished with combed ostrich feathers, suitable for a 1930s dance hall or a private cocktail party perhaps.

Chanel, c. 1934 source

Ginger Rogers wore a similar ensemble in white in the musical  "Top Hat" with Fred Astaire in 1935.

  

Ostrich feather hats, with smaller feathers, were also popular in the 1940s.

American dinner hat, wool with purple ostrich feathers. c. 1942, source

And the fifites loved glamorous feather slippers!

The 1961 French film L'Année dernière à Marienbad (released in the USA as Last Year At Marienbad and in the UK as Last Year in Marienbad)  directed by Alain Resnais heavily featured ostrich feathers, in costumes designed by Chanel.

 Delphine Claire Beltiane Seyrig in  L'Année dernière à Marienbad, source

This dress is by the  House of Dior, designed by Marc Bohan (French, born 1926), c. 1965–68, in yellow silk, with black ostrich feathers, sequins and beads.

House of Dior c. 1960s, source 

Here's a stunning 1979 number by Bill Blass, silk with ostrich feathers.

Bill Blass, c1979 source

Vintage Ostrich feather Dress with paisley pattern, by James Galanos, c. 1980s source

Strangely enough, it is now the car industry that uses the most feathers.  According to BMW's Munich Factory in Germany, the most important part of a cars finish is the paint shop, the cleanest section of the factory.  The workers wear dust-free, lint-free overalls from head to toe, and to get the best finish each car's shell is dusted down by an amazing machine that gently strokes it all over with Ostrich feathers before painting.

There are still many uses for ostrich feathers in fashion around the world.  When I think 'feathers' the Rio Carnival springs to mind, as do Las Vegas showgirls with thier giant feather fans. Feather boas are still popular, and feather trimmings and plumes are still used as accessories in the millinery industry, and on ladies evening gowns. Here is a lovely ensemble from Oscar de la Renta's winter collection 2004/2005, with a subtle ostrich feather hemline.

Oscar de la Renta 2004/5 source

Hilary Swank's Gucci gown at the 2011 Oscars is a lovely example of elegant ostrich feathers.

 And subtle feather use on this cute modern fascinator.

Of course there are always traditional feather fashion, such as the Order of the Thistle with their black velvet hat  trimmed with white ostrich feathers and a black egret or heron feather.

Prince William, Earl of Strathearn, after becoming a Knight of the most ancient and most noble Order of the Thistle

 source

Do you like feathers?

Deb xx

Quadracycles

A little journey from military fashion to more bicycles.

Here is unusual attire for the army, bowler hat and lounge suit!  The photo is actually of inventor F.R. Simms demonstrating his Simms Motor Scout Armoured Quadricycle in 1899.  He constructed the vehicle by mounting a Maxim machine gun on the front wheels bar of a French De Dion-Bouton Quadracycle, and adding an iron shield in front of the vehicle for the driver/gunner's protection.

A quadcycle is basically a bicycle with four wheels, one at each corner, ridden by one or, more often, more people.  They were invented around the same time as two-wheeled bicycles , and the earliest recorded pedal-powered quadracycle was exhibited in 1853 at the Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations World's Fair held in New York City.

Side by side Quadracycles were more stable at low speeds than bicycles and in-line tandems and it was harder to fall off.   Early designs used foot levers, but in 1885 the Coventry Rotary Quadracycle was introduced which used conventional bicycle-style rotary pedals instead. It was developed from a similar tricycle design and featured tandem seating for two. 

Smartly dressed couple seated on an 1886-model quadracycle for two. The South Portico of the White House, Washington, D.C., in the background.c 1886

In 1888 The Rudge Quadracycle was designed, and it  is described as the first modern practical four-wheeler. It had much lighter construction than earlier models, seated three riders in tandem and was steered by levers from the front seat. 

c. 1888

Quadracycles were popular with fire and postal services.

c. 1890

there is a beautiful example of a fireman's quadracycle at he Brisbane Museum, which actually seats four, and has an attached trailer for the hose.

The Quadracycle of course quickly morphed into a horseless carriage, such as this one.

1894 Balzar

And Henry Fords first car in 1896.

c.1896

Here's a close up of the engine. Isn't it beautiful?!

Ford Quadracycle engine

And the Quadracycle in all it's glory.

Ford Quadracycle 

I can't imagine how expensive one would be to buy now, but here is a replica someone in Indiana made. it sold for a mere $5,000!

Ford Quadracycle replica source

Lovely, don't you think?

Deb xx

Victorian Military Bicycle Uniforms

With bicycles so popular in the late 19th century, in Europe, the United States and Australia, it was inevitable the military would find a use for them. Bicycles were easier to care for than horses, required no fuel or food, a small storage space and little maintenance. They were quiet, and riders could be easily trained. Soldiers previously on foot could travel faster and carry more with a cycle.  Bicycle units were formed at the end of the 19th century by all European armies and the US armed forces, and to some extent took over from the mounted infantry.

Cycle company at Bury St Edmonds, Suffolk

Folding bicycles were developed from about 1895 by Morel and Geraud, and the French army tested about 25 of these bikes. The patent for the folding bike was sold to a consortium of Peugeot, Michelin, and the French army and they took over production of the bike in 1899.

In 1896 in the United States, an extensive experimentation on bicycle units was carried out by a 1st Lieutenant Moss, of the Twenty-fifth United States Infantry Regiment (one of the racially segregated units of the United States Army known as Buffalo Soldiers). The 25th Infantry U.S. Army Bicycle Corps set out across the country on bicycles from Fort Missoula, Montana to several different locations with their greatest trip covering 1,900 miles to St. Louis, Missouri, returning to Missoula by train.  Here they are at Minerva Terrace, Yellowstone National Park, 1897. 

Photos by Frank Jay Haynes Source

You can read more about this epic trip here.

 The first known use of the bicycle in combat occurred during the Jameson Raid in 1896, in what was to become South Africa, in which cyclists carried messages.

Soldier during the 2nd Boer War source

Soldiers with early folding cycles

Three years later in the Second Boer War, military cyclists were used primarily as scouts and messengers, although several raids were conducted by cycle-mounted infantry on both sides.

Simon Dussault folding bicycle c. 1895

One unit patrolled railroad lines on specially constructed tandem bicycles that were fixed to the rails.  Mikael Pedersen had developed a two-rider tandem version of his Pedersen bicycle in about 1898 that weighed 24 pounds, and a four-rider, or "quad", that weighed 64 pounds, and earlier in 1895 Julien Simon and Victor Dussault, both of Paris, France, patented  a folding tandem bicycle which they described a regular folding bike that could be converted into a folding tandem with the addition of another frame and connecting parts.

Other early folding bikes were the Faun Folding Cycle produced in England in 1896 and the Dwyer Folding Bicycle made in Connecticut , designed by Michael B. Ryan, which was sold to the military as well as the public.  This photo is from an article about the Dwyer folding bicycle in the Scientific American magazine dated March 13, 1897 showing a soldier demonstrating the folding operation of the bike.

The uniforms for cyclist soldiers tended to have loose pants and gaiters, no matter which army they were fighting for.  Very similar to this Sardinian uniform from 1859, which I had to include because I just love it!

Deb xx

Victorian Nostaglia & Steampunk

I have come to a realisation.

I love Steampunk.

What is "Steampunk?" you may ask.

Basically Steampunk is Victorian science-fiction-fantasy, or the past that never was.  Old done in a new way or vice-versa - Victorian outfits with a modern twist, or mobile phones made of leather and brass. Steampunk takes it's name from the time of Steam power, and the punk genre of being different and questioning everything. Why do we have to have boring clothes made in China or plastic everything and sameness?  Why can't we have beauty and fun, traditional materials like leather, timber, brass and copper, items that can be tinkered with and not just thrown away when broken or uncool.  With Steampunk, you have the best things of the Victorian era, without the hardships, racism, sexism and child labour. It's Victorian nostalgia in a way - looking at the past through rose coloured glasses.
.

Put these on baby!

If you love vintage, you're part steampunk already.  I have been Seampunk for years and just never knew it had a name.  My first house (twenty years ago now) was built in 1910, with high ceilings and  lots of timber and we renovated it with brass light fittings and fans, and had brown velvet sofas and Persian rugs.  I so miss it, but hoped in Queensland I would have an old timber Queenslander - I am still waiting. One day I may have something like this!

Brooklyn House, Fraser Coast QLDc. 1890  source

Probably not, but while I am waiting I shall continue to research the Victorian and Edwardian eras, and Steampunk.  As well as this blog I have started a tumblr page, which explores Steampunk in all it's forms, with photos and quotes.  It's called Brass Butterflies and the link is in the side bar.

As well as being a little bit 'Steamy' in my daily life, I am working on some costume ideas for a Steamfest next August in Ipswich, Queensland, so I'll jot about then too.  Any input is welcome!  And if you are in Queensland next August, think about attending.........

Go to the website for more information.

Farewell for now, tumblr awaits.

Deb xx

The Air Ship - a musical farce comedy from 1898

Distracted again, this time by these delightful posters for The Air Ship, a musical comedy by JM Gaites from 1898.

source

source

Below is part of an article which appeared in the January 18, 1899 Fort Wayne News (Fort Wayne, Indiana):

 "The Air Ship," a new and original spectacular musical farce comedy, written by J.M. Gaites, possesses some novel and realistic scenic features, and it will probably draw a big audience at the Masonic Temple ton-night. One of the most realistic stage scenes ever presented will be the flight of a real air ship with fifteen passengers on a Klondike expedition, and a view of Dawson City in winter. While the author does not claim a plot, "The Air Ship" has a central idea or theme, with which it is infested by amusing dialogue, new songs, dances and specialties. Careful attention will be given to staging "The Air Ship," and the company of artists engaged will give a lively presentation of the farce.

 I haven't been able to find out much about Mr Gaites, but the posters are divine don't you think?

Deb xx