The Heliograph– vintage solar communication

Back to vintage technology today.

Before the telegraph there was the Heliograph, an instrument that reflected the sun's light to an observer at a distance.  In Greek, helios, means "sun", and graphein, meaning "write.  Its main uses were in the military (army and navy), survey and forest protection work.  Heliographs were used in the Zulus Wars of 1879 and the Boer Wars, and were standard issue in the British and Australian armies until the 1960s.  They were used by the Pakistani army as late as 1975.


Wood engraving of the heliograph at work in the Zulu wars, Published by the Illustrated London News, 1879 source

The first recorded use of heliograph comes from 405 BC when the Ancient Greeks used polished shields to signal in battle. In about 35 AD, the Roman emperor Tiberius, by then very unpopular, ruled his vast empire from a villa on the Isle of Capri. It's thought he used a heliograph to send coded orders every day to the mainland, eight miles away.



The first modern documented use of a heliographic device came in 1821, when the German professor Carl Friedrich Gauss developed and used a predecessor of the heliograph (the heliotrope) which directed a controlled beam of sunlight to a distant station.  It was meant to be used for geodetic survey work, but was later used extensively by the British and the American armies as a 'wirefree' field telegraph - using Morse Code.

Darby Knob heliograph lookout station near Calaveras Station, Canada, 1914.

The simplest heliostat is a mirror hung up at a distant station so as to reflect a flash to the observer whose station may be up to 80 miles from it.  For survey work the mirror can be adjusted so that the flash occurs exactly at some prearranged hour, and if fitted with clock-work, the mirror can be made to revolve with the sun, and so to reflect a beam of sunlight steadily in one direction. If the beam or flash of light is interrupted, either by momentarily pivoting the mirror, or by interrupting the beam with a shutter, a code such as Morse code can be sent to the observer.


The following is a description of the Heliograph from the Telegraphic Journal, reprinted in the Brisbane Courier Mail in 1881.
The apparatus consists of a metallic bar sup-ported in a perpendicular position by tripod legs ;at the summit of this is a ball and socket joint with a very short arm, to which is fixed a circular  mirror 3 in. in diameter, having a small hole pierced through the centre of the backing and the silvering removed at that point. A short distance below the ball and socket joint, a light arm, about 8in. in length, and also movable by a ball and socket joint and clamped by a screw behind, is affixed to the standard. The outer end of this arm is fitted with another circular mirror, removable at pleasure and capable of adjustment to any angle. There is also a sight vane consisting of an oblong piece of metal with a V-shaped nick in the centre of one of its ends; this can be attached to the end of the arm in place of the second mirror when occasion requires.This completes the apparatus, which the inventor has constructed so as to fit into a leather bag 13in. long, 3 1/2 in. wide, and 1 1/2 in. deep, and which weighs about 2lb.



The heliograph is used in the following manner :- When the sun is in front, that is towards the distant station, the instrument is set up with the sight vane in the general direction of the distant station and the mirror facing in the same direction. The eye is then placed as close as convenient to the back of the mirror, and the latter looked through at the centre hole ; at the same time the V of the sight vane is set in line  with the distant station. The mirror and sight arm are then so manipulated that the dark spot cast by the unreflecting centre hole is thrown on the bottom of the V in the sight vane, whilst at the same time the centre hole, bottom of the V, and distant station are in one straight line. Thus the "flash" is directed on the distant station. When the sun is not in the  direction of the distant station the sight vane is removed and the second mirror substituted.The instrument is then set up so that the principal mirror faces the sun and has its back towards the distant station ; the centre hole is than looked through and the mirrors manipulated until the reflection of the distant station is seen within the V of a piece of paper fixed on the surface of the second mirror, and at the same time the dark spot from the central un-reflecting portion of the other mirror is thrown on the bottom of the V. It is in all cases necessary occasionally to readjust the apparatus as time goes on so as to make up for the apparent motion of the sun.
The " flash" having been properly established,signalling is carried on by using tho Morse alphabet of "dots" and " dashes," which is  effected simply by interposing the hand, a note-book, piece of board, or other opaque sub-stance smartly between the sight vane and the surface of the mirror. By this means, with practice, letters can be sent as fast as the eye can read. In military signalling it has recently been decided to signal by obscuration instead of flashing, which renders this instrument rather more handy than if "flashing"' only were used.

British army signallers c. 1914 source

During the First World War wired telephones were used where possible but this involved laying landlines which was a hazardous job due to enemy shelling. The Heliograph was used for signalling to a distant point, and was normally set it up on high ground, quite close to the frontline troops.  These signallers provided vital information back to their Company and Battalion H.Q.

A signal post at Tiberias. Three members of the 8th Australian Light Horse Regimental Signal Station, with their heliograph on the pier on the Sea of Galilee, 1918  source

In deserts and in most parts of Australia where there is little coverage, the heliograph was a great means of communication.   In 1932, 16 year old Vera Halifax used a heliograph to save her life.  Vera lived with her father on a remote quarantine station, 10 miles out of Darwin. She was stricken with acute appendicitis and summoned help by  sending a message in Morse code by heliograph. A launch was sent to the station and she was rushed to hospital where an immediate operation was successfully performed. Vera was taught how to signal by Mr. Gordon Cowper, the Government engineer who runs the launch to the station so she could obtain news from Darwin each day, and it was he  who saw her frantic call for help and brought her to hospital.
In 1941 an appeal was launched for AIF recruits. The posters showed  Australian heliograph signallers at work in the desert.

Australian signallers put the sun to work, 1941 source

Demonstrating technique of heliograph in the Australian Army Volunteer Defence Corps, 1943. source

With the advent of the ‘wireless’ or radio after 1900, the use of heliographs declined. Today they are mainly used by reenactors, although compact versions are popular with bushwalkers and survivalists.

  
source

With the floods and fires we are having in Australia at present,  and the communications difficulties they present, keeping one in the kit may not be a bad idea!

Deb xxx

Ostrich Feathers in Fashion

Ostrich Hunt, Etched by Stefano della Bella c. 1654 source

Ostriches have been hunted and farmed for their feathers, skin, oil and meat since Roman times.  Ostrich feathers have been used in fashion for thousands of years and were at one time worth more than their weight in gold.

Golden Gate Ostrich Farm Certificate for 5 Shares of $10 each, issued 26th Nov 1912 source

Ostriches are native to the African continent but are farmed worldwide.  Ostriches are so adaptable that they can be farmed in climates ranging from South Africa to Alaska.  It is thought that ostriches were domesticated at Oudtshoorn- a town on the southern most tip of Africa, where Ostriches roamed the plains  for centuries.   The modern domestic ostrich was bred from a cross between South Africa's indigenous bird, the South African Black, and the Evans-Lovemore strain of Barbary blue-necked ostriches (141 of which were secretly smuggled out of North Africa and brought to Oudtshoorn by a group of adventurers), and farming began in about 1860.

A Poke Bonnet c. 1860, source

Silk dress with ostrich feather trim c. 1875 source

Ostrich feathers in ladies clothing and hats was the height of fashion in Victorian and Edwardian Europe where they were especially popular for use on the latest fashionable hats. 

American silk and wool hat with ostrich feathers c.1910 source

c. 1911, source

A headline inThe New York Times from 1912 read: OSTRICH FEATHERS ONCE MORE IN WIDE USE. The article explained: “For hat trimming one plume, full and long, is considered sufficient, and in almost every instance the tip of the plume is placed toward the back of the hat, or resting at the back of the head.”

Between 1875 and 1880, ostrich  prices reached up to £1000 per breeding pair, and farmers of the region, quickly realised that ostriches were far more profitable than any other activity. Numerous immigrants, particularly the Jews of Eastern Europe and Lithuania, moved to Oudtshoorn, so that it earned the nickname "Little Jerusalem" by 1890.  By 1900 there were over 700,000 birds in captivity world wide, including in Australia and new Zealand

"Ostrich farming in Auckland District. Young Birds inspecting visitors, Helvetia Park, Auckland," 1905, 

 The best plumes are from the male birds were carefully cut, with sharp scissor like tools, and used for women’s hats as well as  capes, hand fans, boas, muffs, and trimmings on a variety of clothing and accessories.  At the peak of their popularity during the “feather fashion craze” of the early 20th century, plumes were found in dozens of sizes, made into fantastic shapes and amazing types. 

Fan of mother of pearl & ostrich feathers c. 1900 source

Fan dancer c. 1910

a Russian singer with Feather boa, c. 1900

South African ostrich feather dusters were developed in Johannesburg, South Africa by missionary, broom factory manager, Harry S. Beckner in 1903. He felt that the Ostrich feathers made a convenient and most efficient tool for cleaning up the machines at the broom factory.  By 1905 the Ostrich Duster was the must have item in many a household and were sold in ever increasing numbers which saw the introduction of the  feather duster salesman!  

Ostriches were also valued for their leather, which meant that in the 18th century they were almost hunted to extinction.  It is claimed that ostriches produce the strongest commercial leather, and it is highly prized for its strength and beauty and is still used today for shoes, purses, wallets, luggage and other small accessories.

Cawston Ostrich Farm,  in South Pasadena, California , just 5km north of downtown Los Angeles,  was opened in 1886 by Edwin Cawston as  America's first ostrich farm, after he imported fifty ostriches from South Africa (although less than half survived the journey).  Ostrich farms soon became popular tourist destinations. Guests could feed the birds and could be taken for ostrich drawn carriage rides or ride on the birds back, and women could buy leather products and feather hats in the farm's shop.

Children in an ostrich pulled cart at the Cawston Ostrich Farm, South Pasadena c. 1925

A thrilling ride at Cawston's c. 1927 source

It was primarily the invention of the motor car and the advent of the First World War that brought the Ostrich Feather Boom Era to an end. Faster open vehicles played havoc with the ladies’ splendid feather decorated fashions and fashion trends in 1914 and onwards were generally more sober and less flamboyant.

The burst of the 'feather bubble' wreaked havoc on thousands of people, particularly, argues Sarah Abrevaya Stein in her  book Plumes: Ostrich Feathers, Jews, and a Lost World of Global Commerce,Jews, such as those of Oudtshoorn and their relatives elsewhere. 

Ostrich feathers did pop up now again after WWI, and examples in fahsion can be found from every decade.  Look at this stunning dress by Louiseboulanger, from 1928, with trim of individual filaments of ostrich plume knotted together to form longer strands, each dyed a different tone for the effect of an ombré cascade.

Dress by Louiseboulanger, c.1928 source

In about 1934 Chanel designed a gown and matching evening cape  in black silk crêpe and embellished with combed ostrich feathers, suitable for a 1930s dance hall or a private cocktail party perhaps.

Chanel, c. 1934 source

Ginger Rogers wore a similar ensemble in white in the musical  "Top Hat" with Fred Astaire in 1935.

  

Ostrich feather hats, with smaller feathers, were also popular in the 1940s.

American dinner hat, wool with purple ostrich feathers. c. 1942, source

And the fifites loved glamorous feather slippers!

The 1961 French film L'Année dernière à Marienbad (released in the USA as Last Year At Marienbad and in the UK as Last Year in Marienbad)  directed by Alain Resnais heavily featured ostrich feathers, in costumes designed by Chanel.

 Delphine Claire Beltiane Seyrig in  L'Année dernière à Marienbad, source

This dress is by the  House of Dior, designed by Marc Bohan (French, born 1926), c. 1965–68, in yellow silk, with black ostrich feathers, sequins and beads.

House of Dior c. 1960s, source 

Here's a stunning 1979 number by Bill Blass, silk with ostrich feathers.

Bill Blass, c1979 source

Vintage Ostrich feather Dress with paisley pattern, by James Galanos, c. 1980s source

Strangely enough, it is now the car industry that uses the most feathers.  According to BMW's Munich Factory in Germany, the most important part of a cars finish is the paint shop, the cleanest section of the factory.  The workers wear dust-free, lint-free overalls from head to toe, and to get the best finish each car's shell is dusted down by an amazing machine that gently strokes it all over with Ostrich feathers before painting.

There are still many uses for ostrich feathers in fashion around the world.  When I think 'feathers' the Rio Carnival springs to mind, as do Las Vegas showgirls with thier giant feather fans. Feather boas are still popular, and feather trimmings and plumes are still used as accessories in the millinery industry, and on ladies evening gowns. Here is a lovely ensemble from Oscar de la Renta's winter collection 2004/2005, with a subtle ostrich feather hemline.

Oscar de la Renta 2004/5 source

Hilary Swank's Gucci gown at the 2011 Oscars is a lovely example of elegant ostrich feathers.

 And subtle feather use on this cute modern fascinator.

Of course there are always traditional feather fashion, such as the Order of the Thistle with their black velvet hat  trimmed with white ostrich feathers and a black egret or heron feather.

Prince William, Earl of Strathearn, after becoming a Knight of the most ancient and most noble Order of the Thistle

 source

Do you like feathers?

Deb xx

The Edwardian Era begins

The death of Queen Victoria on 22 January 1901 and the succession of her son Edward (technically Albert Edward Wettin, but Edward here for less confusion)  marked the end of the Victorian era.  Just weeks earlier, on 1 January, as the world celebrated the beginning of the 20th century, the British colonies of New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania, Victoria and Western Australia joined together as the Commonwealth of Australia, with Edmund Barton the first Prime Minister.

While Victoria had shunned society and dressed in mourning garb for forty years after the death of her husband in 1861, Edward was sociable and a great traveller.  As Victoria withdrew almost completely from public life, Edward was allowed to represent her at state occasions, although given almost no chance to participate in affairs of state. He became a leader of London society, spending his time eating, drinking, gambling, shooting, watching racing and sailing. He was actually quite spiffy too!

Prince Edward aged 19 c. 1860

Edward had been subjected to a strict regime of education and rules from an early age, as his parents were keen to ensure he was prepared to rule. He attended both Oxford and Cambridge and briefly joined the army. He spoke French, German, Spanish and Italian and toured the world on behalf of the royal family, including Italy, Spain, Canada, India, Egypt, Denmark, France, Germany, Belgium and Russia.  He had even travelled to America in 1860, the first of the Royal family to do so, and on his return had a liaison with an Irish actress that caused considerable scandal. His father visited Edward to reprimand him, and died two weeks later.  Victoria held her son partly responsible for the death of his father.

Prince Edward in military attire

Having mistresses was at the time not uncommon amongst the aristocracy, but his mother despaired of him and kept him away from taking an active part in politics. She once publicly said of him:

‘I never can, or shall, look at him without a shudder’

Edward continued life as a bit of a playboy, despite his marriage to Alexandra ,eldest daughter of King Kristian IX of Denmark, in 1863, and his six children.

The wedding of Prince Albert Edward and Alexandra of Denmark, London, 1863

Prince Edward and Princess Alexandra of Denmark pose with Queen Victoria after their wedding c. 1863.

Although he did not propose to Alexandra until September of 1862, after he'd ended his relationship with his mistress Nellie Clifden, after his marriage he had a succession of mistresses   including Lille Langtry (actress), Lady Churchill (mother of Winston Churchill), Sarah Bernhardt (actress) and Alice Keppel (great-grandmother of Camilla, wife of Charles the current Prince of Wales, and his last and longest serving mistress),  Lady Brooke, Princess de Mouchy and Princess de Sagan.

Edward during a hunt in India in 1875

Never the less Edward was well received abroad.  In 1875 he toured India as heir-apparent. On his return he complained to his mother about British treatment of native Indians -

‘Because a man has a black face and a different religion from our own, there is no reason why he should be treated as a brute.’

Prince Edward as Grand Master of the Knights Hospitallers of Malta, at the Devonshire House Ball, 1897.

Edward was proclaimed Emperor of India on January 1, 1903, and a Delhi Durbar (or big party lasting two weeks) organised by Lord Curzon was held to commemorate the occasion. Edward did not attend, but sent his brother,  the Duke of Connaught. 

 Elephant Carriage of the Maharaja of Rewa at the Retainers' Review, 7th January 1903

Although maybe not a racist, the king was a little sexist.  He was totally opposed to the campaign by the National Union of Suffrage Societies and  the Women's Social and Political Union to achieve the vote for women, however, and politically he favoured the Conservatives.

A suffergette getting arrested c. 1903

He did some good, however, and made several royal visits to help prepare the way for international treaties .  Known as the 'Uncle of Europe', as he was related to most European royalty, he was able to assist in foreign policy negotiations. He was the first British monarch to visit Russia, in 1902, and his addresses during a state visit to Paris helped pave the way for the Anglo-French Entente Cordiale of 1904. He took a particular interest in military matters and opposed attempts to reduce public spending on the armed forces.  He was also a strong advocate of the Dreadnought battle ship building campaign as tension between the United Kingdom and Germany increased from about 1906, the same year the liberals were brought to power in the general election.

Edward c. 1895

Edward  was influenced by the art and fashions of everywhere he went, and  set the pace for men's fashions in this period, despite being quite portly. He had a great appetite, eating five large meals a day often consisting of ten or more courses. By the time he was king he had a waist of forty-eight inches, about twice that of the average corset wearing lady. Edward also smoked twelve large cigars and twenty cigarettes a day. If you have time, have a look at 'The Supersizers eat Edwardian' on youtube, below, in which they experience Edward's diet as well as that of the average Edwardian.

Prince Edward smoking a pipe c. 1868

The King  also influenced female fashions as he particularly favoured the shape of the 'mature woman'. I'll look at fashion through the decade in future posts. He also grew a lovely moustaches, something which I am particularly interested in at present!

King Edward in coronation robes, August 1902

Edward had only a short reign.  He did not become King until he was 59, and died nine years later of pneumonia.  For this reason the Edwardian Era is not usually isolated to the period of his reign (1901-1910), but encompasses the mid 1890s to the outbreak of World War 1 in 1914, with the Titanic era seen as part of this from about 1912-1914.

Prince Charles seems to have had a similar life to Edward in some ways, and Camilla's life has been likened to that of her great-grandmother, as a great mistress of her age.  What do you think?

Deb xx